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What's my motorcycle worth?

Pick your make, model and year — or enter the VIN. You'll get a value range for your exact bike from real US market data in about 30 seconds.

  1. 1Your bike
  2. 2Details
  3. 3Your value

Which motorcycle are we valuing?

Pick it from the list. If you have the VIN handy, that tab decodes the exact model and year from NHTSA.

0/17 · on the steering neck, the title, or your insurance card
How it works

A real range, from real market data.

A motorcycle isn't worth one number — it's worth a range, and where you land in it depends on how you sell. We show you the whole range, and what moved it, so you can decide how to sell, not just whether to.

STEP 01

Identify the bike

Enter your VIN and we decode it through NHTSA's vehicle database: make, model, year, engine. No VIN? Pick from every major make and model sold in the US.

STEP 02

We search the market

Our engine pulls current US listings and recent sales for your exact model and year, discounts asking prices to real transaction prices, and adjusts for your mileage, condition, title and region.

STEP 03

You get your range

A value range for your exact bike with a confidence level. Plus what drove the number, open recalls for your year, and — if you want — offers from local dealers.

What the range means

The low end is what a dealer pays for the bike as it stands — no listing, no waiting, paid this week. When several dealers compete for it, the offers move up from here.

The high end is what the bike changes hands for between riders on Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist or Cycle Trader — after the haggling, not the asking price. Getting there takes photos, a listing and a few weeks in season.

Dealers list comparable bikes above the range, with a warranty, financing and a detail. That is retail money, and nobody buying privately pays it.

Where the data comes from

Our valuation engine runs on Claude, Anthropic's AI model, with live web search. For every valuation it looks for current US listings and recent sold results for your exact model year and the years either side, then reasons about your bike specifically. We store only aggregates — how many comparables it found, the median, the range — never other people's listings.

Every result is checked against our own deterministic model (original MSRP × the depreciation curve for that category × mileage, condition, title and regional adjustments) before it is shown. If the two disagree wildly, you see the conservative number and a low-confidence label, not a guess dressed up as a fact. Recalls and owner complaints come from NHTSA.

What moves the number most
  • Model year and mileage. The two biggest inputs, together.
  • Condition. Excellent to fair is a 20% swing.
  • Title. Salvage or rebuilt takes 30–45% off.
  • Region. California and the Sun Belt run higher; the Midwest lower.
  • Season. Spring peak, Q4 trough — worth 5–10%.
Not a blue book

Book values are updated a few times a year from dealer-reported data. Ours is computed from what bikes are listed and selling for this month, in your part of the country. Read more in our guide to motorcycle blue book values.

Questions

Motorcycle value, answered.

How do I find out what my motorcycle is worth?
Enter your VIN or pick your make, model and year, add the mileage, ZIP code and condition, and we return a value range in about 30 seconds — from what a dealer pays for it as it stands to what it changes hands for privately. It's free and you don't need an account.
Is this the same as Kelley Blue Book or NADA motorcycle values?
No. Kelley Blue Book and J.D. Power (formerly NADA Guides) publish book values updated periodically from dealer-reported data. MotorcycleValuation.com computes a value for your specific bike from current US listings and recent sales in your region, checked against a depreciation model. Many riders check both; ours is typically closer to what bikes are actually changing hands for this month.
Why a range and not one number?
Because the same bike sells for different amounts depending on how you sell it. The low end is a quick sale to a dealer with no listing and no waiting; the high end is a private sale that takes a few weeks in season. Both are real. Where you land is your choice — and when dealers compete for the bike, their offers usually land well inside the range.
Do I need the VIN?
No. A VIN gets you the exact model and year from NHTSA's database, which makes the value more precise. Without one, pick your bike from the list — every major make and model sold in the US since 1970 is there.
How does a salvage or rebuilt title affect my motorcycle's value?
A branded title typically takes 30–45% off the private party value, and many dealers won't take one in trade at all. We ask about title status up front and show the effect in the breakdown.
Why do you ask for my phone number and email?
The email is where we send your result. The phone number is there because getting a value means agreeing that up to three participating dealers may call or text you about buying your bike; the consent box on the form spells that out before you submit. We never sell your details to anyone other than dealers you have agreed to hear from, and you can opt out at any time.
Does the time of year matter?
Yes. Demand for used motorcycles in the US peaks in March–June and bottoms out in November–January. In a northern state the difference can be 10% or more. If you can, sell in spring.
Will you buy my motorcycle?
No. We never buy or sell bikes ourselves. Up to three licensed dealers receive your details and compete for your bike. You choose whether to accept any of them.